If you want your horse to have a relaxed acceptance of the saddle for the rest of his life, use my Resistance Free™ saddling methods. The result will give you a horse that is enjoyable to work with and to be around. If you go through this process too quickly, you will end up with a horse that you will always be nervous and not trusting around. My methods and procedure will be modified according the type and personality of your horse. Make sure that you can read your horse. Always start at a level that your horse can trust and feel confidence. In the process of putting the saddle on your horse for the first time, you will follow an easy step-by-step process to achieve maximum results for you and your horse.
Horses that can stand still quietly when being saddles give you a positive start for your training session. You will want to see a soft, trusting 'eye' and a steady, level top line. This gives you the time and trust to make sure your saddle is postioned in the cradle of your horse's back and that your pad or blanket is balanced under your saddle. If your horse has been short changed and hurried in the first steps of saddling, you can definitely expect serious problems. These horses are easy to spot. They are the ones that pull back and can break the lead rope or halter when they are tied. They will forever have a 'cold back'. This means that they will have an arc or hump in their back for about the first twenty minutes of your ride. They will also clamp their tail and move with a very still motion. One of the most important steps in teaching you rhorse to accept the saddle is to make sure you know the level of your horse before you start the process. In my methods, I always like to divide the horse's ability into at least three starting levels. For the sensitive, insecure and the green horse, I start the process in a box stall. This is the place most saddling takes place on thoroughbred farms. For the horse that has been handles and is fairly secure with a positive attitude, I like to use a round pen and an have an older horse present for security. For the secure, quiet and lazy horse, I like to use the openness of a large arena and also use a pony horse. I have seen too many accidents and wrecks take place when you do not take the time to consider the level of your horse before you begin. Remember to go slow and do your homework. The saddling of the young, insecure horse that is extra sensitive can turn into a very negative first time experience. You must saddle in a very positive environment. This wreck will happen if you are attempting to saddle your horse in a large open arena and you are too quick and forceful. Often your horse will be half cinched and he will get loose and run. On the positive side, if you are working in the security of a box stall, your horse does not have the area to get loose and cannot run. For the horse that is fairly secure, I personally like to use the round pen and the extra presence of an older, saddled horse. When training in Europe, one of the methods that I first noticed was that there was always an older horse present for the first time saddling of a younger horse. This gives the young horse security and he will develop a calm behavior that he will draw from as you work with him. The absolutely, preferred method should be 100% Resistance Free™ and start the saddle preparation exercises on your horse, as young as a weanling. Just lay towels and blankets across your horse's back in very soft, slow movements. By doing this several times a week, you are preparing your horse to accept the pad and saddle that are to come later in his life. No matter whether you use a stall, round pen or a large arena to train your young horse to accept the saddle for the first time, the best and the most lasting methods is what I call my 'pizza theory'. What I mean by this is to break down the steps down so simple that it is like taking one bite at a time. You don't eat a whole pizza in one bite and you don't teach and train your horse in one large step. By breaking things down into many small steps, you will have the opportunity to read your horse and then you move him through the process. If you advance too quickly, he will give you 'red lights'. These consist of tight shoulders and neck, his head will raise, his ears will be back and he will have 'cold' eyes and a clamped tail. When you receive these signals, you are moving too fast. The result will be a 'blow up'. I teach my students to watch for these signals and to back off before they are full blown. It's similar to cooking with a temperature gage. Your horse will get too hot and start to boil over, so turn the heat down until you are back in your horse's comfort zone. When he is ready, you will see him giving you 'green lights'. Your horse needs to give you the relaxed dropping of his head, soft chewing, a deep sigh and he will slowly turn his head towards you. Remember to always approach your horse from an angle. As you move towards him, closely watch his head and ears. If he reaches out and smells, you should keep advancing towards him. If he raises his head, just stop and turn your back to him and walk away. Slowly start over again until your horse accepts you and your rubbing him by his shoulders on both sides. Never walk straight at your horse or use direct eye contact when approaching him with a saddle. The next step would be to very lightly lower the saddle down on your horse's back. Never plop it down and always keep your hand on it. Put the saddle up on the withers and then let it slide back into his back's cradle. Never just let the saddle sit and be sure to work on both sides of your horse. Take you time when you get ready to tighten your horse's cinch. Pull up on the cinch very lightly with your fingers. Do this until your horse is completely relaxed and then finish tightening the girth. Once your horse is saddled, turn him in a small circle. Never lead him straight forward. If he does become fearful and start to go into a 'flight pattern', he could leap directly into you. By leading your horse in a small circle, you will see him relax and trust you. This is also where an older horse comes into play. The steady, calm behavior of the older horse gives the younger horse security. Take no less than one week to pony your horse after you first saddle him. Without a rider, he won't be under the mental and physical pressure. To summarize, I have created my Resistance Free™ training and riding methods to enhance your own program and make it successful. Make sure that you always listen to your horse and watch for the signals that he gives you.Always move in an orderly manner through each step of the program. If you listen, your horse will tell you when he is ready to move on. Patience is the key. May you always ride a good horse..Richard Shrake